Wednesday, 22 April 2015

Contemporary Victorian Gothic Hairstyles; American Horror Inspired

Model; Kate Head Doll

Things you will need;
- Pin tail comb
- Paddle brush
- Hair grips
- Curling tongs

1. Brush the hair through to ensure there are no knots
2. Create a side parting, not too far from the centre
3. On the larger parting side, create 3 barrel roll curls. Section off with the pin tail comb to make sure its neat
4. Create 2 barrel roll curls on the smaller parting side, again use the pin tail comb
5. Pin into place after each roll with hair grips
6. For the back of the hair, create one barrel roll curl & pin into place
7. Underneath this, create under two barrel rolls then again one more underneath this 

Hairstyle 1

1. Take all the grips out of the head
2. With the front curls, pin in place round the bottom of the head
3. Lightly brush through the back of the hair & curl upwards then pin in place
4. Gently pull the fringe out slightly to give it some volume & again, pin in place


Tuesday, 21 April 2015

Dark Eyes & Lips

Consultation Notes;
- Hannah, 20, Female
- Normal/dry skin
- Slight olive/yellow tones
- No allergies

Things you will need;
- Eye shadow palette
- Barry M no.11 lip liner
- Supra colour palette
- Disposable lip wand
- Matte primer
- Gel eyeliner

1. First apply the primer to the eyes & lips, work into the skin
2. Start with the eyes, first blend a white colour into the lid. This is to show the vibrance of the colour once it is on
3. From the eyeshadow palette, use the CARAWAY & blend into the lid crease at the top of the eye, keep blending till you have a nice fading line
4. In both corners of each eye, leaving out the middle of the eyelid, apply SHALLOT & blend into the lid
5. In the middle of the eyelid, apply LAVENDER & again, blend in with the other colours so it's consistent
6. On top of the LAVENDER, apply a small amount of FENNEL to make it brighter & stand out. Also apply FENNEL on the brow bone just under the eyebrow itself & blend in
7. Then draw on the gel eyeliner just above the top lashes & go out to create a flick
8. Go round the lips with the lip liner. To make them fuller, place the lip liner on the upper line instead of the colour line
9. Fill in the lips with the supra colour palette colour LILA

 

Sunday, 19 April 2015

Light Scaring (using moulds) & Colouring

Scars using moulds

Consultation Notes;
- Jasmine, 20, Female
- Normal skin
- Olive tones
- No allergies

Things you will need;
- Cleanser
- Toner
- Cotton buds
- Prosaide adhesive
- Supra colour palette
- Wound filler
- Fake blood
- Gelatine pre-made mould
- Witch hazel
- Translucent powder
- Foundation palette

1. Clean the area you wish to place the mould with cleanser & toner
2. Cut around the edge of the mould to create some rough edges
3. Apply Prosaide to both the wound & the area you wish to place it, wait until it turns clear & tacky then apply to skin
4. Use witch hazel & a cotton bud & start smoothing out the edges of the mould to blend into the skin
5. Powder over the mould
6. Mix together the foundations to match the models skin, if the mould doesn't already match
7. Use a mixture of cotton buds & a knife palette to add wound filler & blood to the mould
8. Decorate the wound however you want to get your desired look



Creating Estella

These are my images from the Estella assessment;


Creating Miss Havisham - Continuity; Part 2

Here are the images from my second Miss Havisham continuity assessment;


As you can clearly see, my images didn't turn out as good as the first half of the assessment. The left side of the face give me some slight trouble, I found it very difficult to blend it all together which lead to me adding on more make-up, I now know this was the wrong thing to do. Although it's all placed the same as the first half, because of that mistake, it's made it look very different I believe. I think that I did the hair well to recreate it as similar as possible, however, I didn't colour the hair enough as the time before so it does also look different. Overall though, I'm happy with how its turned out though. 

Creating Miss Havisham - Continuity; Part 1

These are my images from the first part of the Miss Havisham continuity assessment;


I'm really pleased with how my images turned out. They weren't too over the top with the make-up but I think I made it stand out enough to give the right effect. 

Friday, 17 April 2015

Practice look of Miss Havisham; Hair & Make-Up

Face charts & Hair charts;




Creating my look;

Consultation Notes;
- Jamie, 19, Female
- Normal/ dry skin
- Pale complexion with red undertones
- No allergies

Make-Up

Things you will need;
- Foundation palette
- Skin base foundation
- Translucent powder
- Duo latex
- Supra colour palette
- Foundation brush
- Blending brush
- Disposable mascara wand
- Fake scab blood

1. Mix together skin base, G177 & ALABASTER for the foundatoin & apply to the face
2. Use the translucent powder & blend it all together
3. Mix together ANIS, CARAWAY & WHITE PEPPER to get the colours that you need for the contour sections. Apply to cheeks (make sure they match on either side), neck indents, temples, eyes & nose 
4. Mix together SHALLOT & LAVENDER & apply over the top of the eyes. Blend together
5. Highlight the rest of the face with FENNEL
6. Mix together red, yellow & green colours in the supra colour palette to get the brown colour needed & create the wrinkles. Make your model pull different faces to get all these done correctly. Follow the natural lines
7. Dry the lips & apply the foundation, then apply ANIS, CARAWAY & WHITE PEPPER on top of this to make them look dry. Make your model pout when doing this so it gives off a chapped effect
8. Place a small amount of duo into the corner of the lip, powder over when dry then use fake scab blood over top, but only a small amount. 



Hair;

Things you will need;
- Curling tongs
- Pin tail comb
- Paddle brush
- Hair band
- Hair grips
- Sectioning clips

1. Brush through the hair with the paddle brush to remove any nots
2. Create a centre parting with the pin tail comb
3. Section the front hair off with a slight curved line using the pin tail comb from ear to ear
4. Then create a U shaped section just underneath this so its in the centre of the head & create a high ponytail
5. Create four section sin the ponytail and curl them
6. Twist them round & pin them in place, back comb the base of the curl to make the bun fuller & messier
7. With the lower part of the hair, curl these are let loose to slightly drop out
8. At the front of the hair, create a barrel curl either side of the middle parting & pin into place
9. Curl the remanding hair at the front & pull it back & pin into the bun
10. Leave a ringlet curl by the ear at the front of the hair


Burns

Consultation Notes;
- Naomi, 21, Female
- Normal skin
- Pale complexion
- No allergies

Things you will need;
- Gelatine
- Supra colour
- Hairdryer
- Palette knife
- Fine brush

There are three different types of gelatine that you can get;
- Block gelatine, can be bought from Charles Fox in a variety of colours. Comes in a block, cut into chunks to use & place in a bowl in the microwave.
- Shop bought gelatine that is used for baking, this is the cheapest.
- Screen face also do a gelatine which is more expensive. This comes in a bottle which is placed in a bowl with water & put in the microwave to use. 

I used the block of gelatine;
1. Cut the gelatine into the amount you desire & place in the microwave in a bowl for 10 seconds
2. Test the gelatine on the back of your hand to see if its ready to use & also for the heat so you can place it on your model
3. you have to work quickly before it dries into place, place it in the area you like & using the palette knife, spread it around & break it up so it doesn't go lumpy
4. Use the hair dryer to make sure its completely dry before working on it. Put on a cool temperature & test on yourself first
5. Using the supra colour, create the desired look of the burn you want to create. Use a mixture of darker & lighter colours
6. Its important to stipple on the colour, & not to paint it on so you don't have hard lines & to make it look real
7. If you have it, use wound filler, puss & fake blood to add to the effect. You can also use glycerin to give the area a shine against the skin


Miss Havisham Face Charts

For Miss Havisham, I created two face charts for her, this is because after my second idea, I knew that I wanted to create that look. This is what I did;

for my first look, I wanted to create a look which shows Miss Havisham after the fire, if she was to live. The scars on her face would look crusted & old so deep, dark colours would be used to create this. I would also make the other half of her face look pretty to show that she still looks after herself. To do this, I would use the foundation palette & mix it to the model I use. I would use a light blue on the eyelids so it wasn't too overpowering but then contrast this with a dark lipstick colour, maybe a deep purple. I would slightly contour the face & colour in the eyebrows. While also applying mascara to her good eye



My second face chart shows an aged Miss Havisham. I didn't want her to look old as such but to make her look fragile. So instead of concentrating on the wrinkles, I chose to make her face look sunken in as if she's been starved & not had much sunlight. Her lips are dry & cracking which has lead to a cut forming. I like this look because not many people have done  it. 


Victorian Hairstyle Ideas - Miss Havisham

We had to create three different hair charts for the Miss Havisham look. These are what I came up with;

My first creation was rather historical look. The plan for this look is a centre parting with either side slicked down to the head. I would then have some messy ringlet curls either side, they would be messy because they'd have the look that they've been in for a while. I would slick the back of the hair into a plaited bun in the back. We did this on the Kate Doll Head, and the bun came out looking rather small, so if I was to create this look, I would want to have a model with either long, thick hair, or use a hair piece to make it larger. 

My second hairstyle has again, a middle parting in the centre of the hair. It would have three barrel roll curls either side of the parting. I would want them of a decent size so you can see them slightly at the back but not too big that they look silly at the front. The back of the hair is slick back into a large plaited bun. I would leave a section of the hair down at the back & turn this into 4 ringlet curls. 



My final hairstyle is my favourite & the one I'm going to create for my Miss Havisham look. This look has a centre parting with a barrel roll either side of the parting. I would section the hair over the top of the head, from ear to ear. With the back of the hair, I would create a high messy bun with not everything pinned in place properly. The rest of the back hair will be sectioned, two ringlet curls either side by the ears with two strands of frizzed hair in the middle, that would be brushed out slightly. The rest of the hair at the front would be curled & pinned back into the bun with a ringlet curl either side of the ears. I would spray dry shampoo over the roots of the hair to make it look aged along with using some supra colour palette makeup to create different shaped of grey within the hair. 


Cuts, Scratches, Bruises & the Perfect Black Eye

Cuts

Consultation Notes;
- Jasmine, 20, Female
- Normal skin
- Olive skin tones
- No allergies

Things you will need;
- Wax
- Cleaner
- Palette knife
- A pin
- Liquid latex
- Stipple sponge
- Fake blood
- Hair dryer

1. Get a small amount of wax & place on the back of your hand to warm it up to make it easier to manipulate & control
2. Apply the wax to the area you want the wound, build it up in the centre and blend away at the edges
3. Use a small amount of cleaner to the edges of the wax to make it easier to smooth out
4. Apply liquid latex around the edges to blend out, this will keep the wax in place
5. Dry with a hair dryer on a cool heat, test on yourself first, to dry the latex
6. Use the pin to part the wax, make sure to not go too deep with the pin so you don't hurt the model
7. You might need to apply a small layer on base to the models skin if it is a different colour to the wound
8. Use the stipple sponge to add fake blood in & around the wound



Scratches

Things you will need;
- Fake blood
- Stipple sponge

Scratches are easy to create. You can do them by using a stipple sponge and a light layer of fake blood. Apply it to the skin & drag in the direction you want the scratches to go.

Bruises & Black Eyes

Consultation Notes;
- Becky, 21, Female
- Normal skin
- Pale complexion 
- No allergies

Things you will need;
- Cleanser
- Toner
- Moisturiser
- Ben Nye bruise wheel
- Stipple sponge
- Kryolan eyeshadow palette

1. Cleanse, tone & moisturise the face to make sure you have a clean, fresh base
2. Chose whether you are creating a fresh or slightly aged bruise. I have chosen an slightly aged bruise
3. Start with using lighter colours & build it up before applying the darker colours. I started with yellows, then brown, blues & purples. This was a mixture of the shadow palette & Ben Nye bruise wheel
4. Make sure the colours are blended into the skin & at the edges nicely

A tip we got from our teacher, Sue, was to go just above the eyebrow as well to make it look more realistic 


In this picture, you can also see that I did a split lip. I used the same techniques for the bruising around it. However, I applied a small layer of liquid latex & split it in half through the middle with a pin to make it look open. I then filled it with a deep red colour as it was an aged wound.